Conversion of the Druid House
The halflings get a water mill
There are, of course, many ways to transform hard foam buildings.
I was inspired by a customer's idea and used it to build a water mill for a halfling village.
So a gloomy druid's hut now becomes a friendly water mill for halflings.
Instructions from Thomas (Thommy) Doll
You need thatCraft knife
Position of the attachments and mounting parts
First I determine the positions for the window, door and mill wheel.
I use items from the ZITERDES and Thomarillion range here.
The small extension at the back of the hut should be built over the millstream.
But you could also cover the original door with the mill wheel and insert the new entrance on the actual back of the hut and, for example, convert the extension into a vestibule. Just as you like it.
The entrance door
Round doors and windows are typical.
I try to position the round door as much as possible so that I can cut out the original door completely.
I draw the position of the door and the windows on the building with a pencil.
Since I have to place the door relatively high, I build two small steps for the entrance out of Styrodur. I press in the joints between the steps with a biro. I don't glue the stairs on until the end of the craft so that I don't accidentally damage them.
The first cuts
Now I cut the opening for the new door in the building along the drawn lines with a sharp craft knife.
A bit of putty covers the remains of the old door that were still visible.
For the windows, it is sufficient to cut only about half a centimetre deep along the lines.
Then, using a pointed object (preferably a file), poke a hole in the centre of the planned window opening and then break out the excess material.
Under two of the planned four windows I would like to install wide window sills (e.g. for flower pots).
For this I simply use the wall shelves from the Thomarillion range.
In the wall shelf set from ZITERDES there are also two that can be used well.
The wall shelf fits between the two wall supports of one house wall as if it had been made for that purpose ;-)
The window in the extension
The original pointed window in the hut's extension is much higher than the round windows.
I simply cut off the remaining window frame of the old window with a craft knife. If necessary, you can also use a little putty.
This bonds very well with the rigid foam. I let the compound set a little after applying it and can then use a toothpick to add joints as needed. After painting, you won't notice any difference between the hard foam wall and the bricks made with putty.
Working the mill wheel
Since I don't build the mill firmly on a terrain plate with a stream, I cut off two blades of the mill wheel.
I can still smooth them with sandpaper and so the mill wheel can be attached lower to the hut.
I want to add a dormer above the door later. Here I will also use one from the Thomarillion range. These are already available with a thatched roof, but I want to show here how to make such a thatched roof, so I'm taking one with shingles that I can then adapt to my needs.
Because with some teddy bear fur I can easily cover the shingles of the dormer. Of course, I have to pay attention to the direction in which the "hair" is stroked!
A chimney would be nice
Early medieval buildings, such as the Druid's house, did not yet have chimneys, but the smoke from the fireplace escaped through the ridge into the open air. The ridge was usually open along the entire length of the house and was protected against water penetration by a small superstructure. Hence the look of the roof.
Halflings, however, want to be cosy and certainly had a fixed fireplace with its own flue! The dilapidated wall on one side of the hut is perfect for adding a chimney.
To do this, I use a piece of Styrodur and fit the chimney and the hut roof together with a craft knife.
"Brick" the chimney
I first draw in the joints between the stones of the chimney and then trace them with the craft knife. This way I avoid tearing out the material.
You can then widen the joints with a biro and work the surface with a piece of wood and a ball of aluminium foil. With the wood I press in some stones to create a more irregular brickwork, with the ball I work the surface of the styrodur to give it a stone structure.
In the lower area of the chimney I try to take up the look of the house wall, in the upper area the chimney should be bricked more "neatly".
The last step is to paint the building.
I prime the add-on parts dark grey (almost black) and also "wash" the rest of the hut a little so that the shadows become darker. For this I thin my paint so that it runs well into the depressions.
For the wood I use a lighter brown and beige, for the roof dark and light green to simulate that the roof is overgrown with grass (the halflings like the "hill look"). Alternatively, I could "green" the roof with scatter materials.
I paint the stones with light grey and ivory.
As always, I prefer dry brushing as a painting technique. Here I paint from dark to light and the lighter the colour, the drier the brush should be.
The trick is to use a flat brush to get only the raised areas of the surface to be painted. Only the windows and the fittings are a bit fiddly to paint.
We did it!
Here are a few more pictures of the finished conversion.
I'm always fascinated by what you can make out of models with conversion ideas and paint. I find it particularly exciting when you change the purpose of a model and put it from one genre into another.
With hard foam models you have soooo many possibilities!
I wish you lots of fun with your handicrafts and painting.
Thommy (formerly Thomarillion) from the ZITERDES team
Your crafted results
Thommy (then still at Thomarillion) at the craft workshop at the SPIEL in Essen
There's more to it than you think!
Take a look at what is possible with hard foam models.